This is the story of a bike tour I made in February 2010 in Rio Grande do Sul highlands, in Brazil. I have gone on this ride three times—in 2009, in 2008, and also in 2007—which I named Pedalada Serramar Sierra-to-the-sea ride, because it goes from the highlands of southern Brazil to the shores of Rio Grande do Sul. Due to logistical problems I had to change the route this year to make the departure and arrival locations the same. However, for sentimental reasons I kept the name “Serramar.”

My goal was to reach the town of São José dos Ausentes, RS, a city located in the highest and coldest part of the state. I did try this twice before without success. So after careful planning and selection of equipment, I started the ride in the tourist city of Canela. By “careful planning,” I mean that I would be cycling in one of the most difficult and wildest parts of the state, and I wanted to be ready for any mechanical problems. Rapid climatic changes are also common in that area, but the beauty of the scenery is proportional to the terrible road conditions, as we will see… Read more…

Este é o relato da cicloviagem que realizei no final de fevereiro de 2010 pela região dos Campos de Cima da Serra no Rio Grande do Sul. Trata-se da tradicional Pedalada Serramar que tenho realizado desde 2001 nesta época do ano (2009, 2008, 2007). O nome se deve pelo fato do local de partida ser um dos municípios da serra e a chegada no litoral do estado. Por motivos alheios a minha vontade o percurso da viagem deste ano teve de ser alterado, fazendo que o local de saída e chegada fossem os mesmos; mas mantive o nome “Serramar” por razões sentimentais.

Meu objetivo principal seria chegar até a cidade de São José dos Ausentes, RS, o município situado na região mais alta e mais fria do estado. Por duas vezes eu já havia tentado chegar lá pedalando sem sucesso. Então após cuidadosa preparação e seleção do equipamento para a viagem, iniciei o percurso na turística cidade de Canela.

Quando eu me refiro a “preparação cuidadosa”, isto significa que pelo fato de estar pedalando por uma das regiões mais inóspitas do estado eu teria de estar pronto para eventuais problemas mecânicos e também mudanças meteorológicas, fato comum na região. Além disso, a beleza da região é diretamente proporcional às péssimas condições das estradas, como veremos a seguir. Leia mais…

 
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This is a joyous time of the year for wildlife, and muskrats are no exception. The ice which has sheathed their world has begun to recede, releasing them from the constraints of the underwater realm and the toasty but dark and confining interior rooms of the lodge. Days are warmer, too, and though muskrats are usually active at night, they are creatures of the day and are as happy to bask in the sun’s rays as we are.

Muskrats are similar to beavers but are smaller, they don’t fell trees, and their tails are slim, not wide and flat. They live in wetlands just as beavers do, and thrive on the roots of aquatic plants. Their lodges are similar to beaver lodges in shape, but are smaller and built of the dried stalks of dead aquatic plants. Maybe because of their name, muskrats are an underappreciated animal, but they’re a valuable member of the wetland community. Our photographer Tony Jancek has been chronicling the comings and goings of a family of muskrats, and shares these photos of these busy little animals on their home pond.

 

Late winter is a fickle time. Days are warm, but at night the temperatures drop below freezing. The morning sun hasn’t yet done its work on the icicles twinkling from these crab apples and wild apples:

 
The apples which cling to trees in the old orchard near the muskrat pond will provide much needed food for migrating songbirds, wild turkeys, small mammals, and the deer. Meanwhile, as the sun kisses the water of the pond, a flock of mallards gabble as they preen and soak up the warmth.

 
One of the ducks notices movement. He spreads the word, and more heads turn. What have they seen? Looks like a mink:

 
The mink has come up onto the ice pan around a muskrat lodge and is sniffing around.

 
Minks are opportunistic carnivores, but he wouldn’t tackle a full-grown muskrat, and he isn’t going to find the lodge entrance above the water. And he doesn’t stay long, because someone’s coming:

 
A male muskrat has been out and about, inspecting his home waters, but now he’s on his way back to the lodge.

 
With the mink well away, the muskrat finds a comfortable place to sit in the sun, then has a good scratch and preen:

 
He’s hungry after all that work and grooming, so he reaches under the water and pulls up the succulent root of an aquatic plant.

 
Yummy. Soon he is joined by his mate. They touch noses in greeting before she goes for a root to eat, too:

 
HEY! You’re sitting on my roots! Move over…

 
She’s not going to be shoved aside and keeps eating, so he gives up and looks elsewhere.

 
Before long, youngsters join their parents. Here’s one of them:

 
The sun is shining, the family is gathered for a meal, and life is good on the muskrat pond.

 
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