Feb 01 2010
Chuck Davis’ Workshop:
Building a New Old Commuting and Touring Bike
A new, reliable touring bicycle can be out of reach if you’re on a budget, but you don’t need to spend a lot of money on a brand new one to get a serviceable touring or utility bike. What you need is a new old bike, one that’s been refurbished to suit your requirements. This kind of bicycle can give you just about everything you’d get in a new bicycle, but for a fraction of the cost. There are other compensations, too. While a shiny, new bicycle certainly can get the heart pumping, it can also bring new anxieties. That first scratch can be traumatic, especially if you spent a good deal of money for your new steed. Vandalism or theft are always possible, as well, however diligent you are in parking and locking your bike. Theft is a particular risk if your bicycle is expensive, or very popular but hard to find, or is outfitted with valuable components that can be stripped and resold. Because an older bike isn’t the shiniest item on the road, it’s less likely to scream STEAL ME! to the next thief passing by.
So what do you do to get a new old bike? Do what Marcos Netto did. Marcos asked around and one of his friends pointed him in the direction of an eBay listing. The result? He bought a used Monark 10 for only USD160. With a bit of work and a few new or used but inexpensive components, he had a serviceable commuter.
Or maybe you can do what I’m doing and refurbish a bike which once served you well, but which has been neglected for a long time. My 10-speed, a vintage Schwinn Traveler, now only needs to have the brakes cabled to be road-worthy, after I installed a new five-speed freewheel, new chain, new wheels and tires, and a rear rack. The alloy stem is “frozen” into the steel steerer, but so what? It’s not as if the stem isn’t at the right height, and it sure isn’t going to slip. With a weekend of TLC, Traveler will be able to hit the road in style.
If you aren’t handy with tools, or if you don’t have an old bike in your garage, barn, or basement, then you have to cast your net wider. Talk to a trusted bike mechanic like Chuck Davis. Chuck owns and operates Oklahoma Velo Sales, in Tulsa, and lends his decades of experience as a bike mechanic to Outside Up North as our technical advisor. He found a frame in his collection that had been knocking around long enough to have lost its decals and head badge, but it was a serviceable frame and could be built into a perfectly good commuter. And that’s just what he did. Chuck outfitted the bike with reasonably priced new components or used components in good working condition. It’s an attractive bike, don’t you think? (See a larger photograph of Chuck’s bike on his Flickr page.)

Compare it to my Surly LHT:

The LHT is designed as a touring bike, so serves as an example of the type. Compare the details between the two bikes. Both have long rear triangles—you can tell by looking at the wide gap between the seat tube and the rear wheel. Also check the large amount space between the front wheels and the down tubes. That signifies a long wheelbase, and that means the bike will be more forgiving and more comfortable than a racing bike with “tight” geometry that hardly has room to slip your fingers between the rear wheel and the seat tube, and no room for fenders over either wheel. A long rear triangle conveys other advantages. Panniers slung off the rear rack will ride further aft and reduce the risk of striking your heels on the bags as you pedal. And that gap up front cuts back on the chances you’ll have toe-overlap when making turns, even if fenders are mounted.
To build up his new old bike, Chuck first spray-painted the frame, then outfitted the bike with components including:
- • Used wheels (Shimano Deore LX hubs and Alex or CR-18 rims)
- • 700×35 Pasela TG tires
- • SunRace 8 speed 12-34 cassette
- • No-name compact crankset (~32 and 48)
- • Bar-end shifters
- • Tektro cantilever brakes
- • Odyssey Toro Pro headset
- • MKS GR-9 platform pedals
- • Rear and low-rider front racks
The fit can be customized with a stem and handlebars to suit the customer’s riding style. The gear ratio is approximately 26-110 gear inches, which isn’t the equal of the Trucker’s 20-114 inches, but it’s close enough that this bike could manage to pack panniers or tow a trailer, cope with hills and headwinds, and haul the grocery load without burning out your knees. And you’d get all this for a lot less than you’d have to pay for a LHT or similar bike.
So, if you’re thinking of getting into cycling after a long hiatus but aren’t sure you want to make a big investment, or if you’re on a tight budget, don’t be discouraged. With a new old bike, you’re good to go.


