When unusually rainy weather finally came to an end this last week, I eagerly visited favorite haunts with camera tucked inside my rack trunk so I could shoot some scenes of this abbreviated colorful season. But let me tell you, it has been downright cold, even with the sun shining. Almost as quickly as I can snap my fingers, the weather has turned from warm enough for shorts and jersey, to cold enough for tights and insulated gloves. I wasn’t prepared for the chill on the first ride after the rains. A bitter northeasterly breeze sliced right through my long-fingered three-season cycling gloves, and icy tears were wrung from my eyes despite wrap-around protective glasses. My earlobes were nipped, and I never really felt warm, even when grinding up the long hill back home. That ride was a blunt reminder that it’s time to begin outfitting for cold conditions.

 

 
Whether you’re riding in for recreation, or are commuting to work, or are using your bike for shopping trips, this is the time to begin getting ready for whatever nasty weather nature can throw at you. I’ve touched on the subject often—check out the “Winter Bicycling” page where you’ll find links to articles about keeping your eyes protected and your feet warm, about carrying a survival kit, and about winterizing yourself and your bike. The subject of cold-weather cycling is as big as the wide open Arctic, though, and I’ve had letters from cyclists wanting to know…

How to Keep Dry in the Cold Cycling works up a sweat in the coldest weather, and if the sweat can’t evaporate, you’ll soak your clothes and be chilled when you stop. Then there’s the wetness which comes from outside your protective barriers. Mist, rain, and snow can wet you down in a hurry. Wearing several layers of clothes helps you keep dry and warm at the same time. Start at the top by wearing a thin skull cap or ear band under your helmet. If you don’t like wearing material under your skid-lid, try a helmet cover—get one with reflective strips and a bright color to help motorists see you, especially when the light is dim. Working your way down, a neck gasket can be pulled up over your mouth and nose, or left bunched under your chin. Some cyclists pull a hood up either under or over their helmets. If you cover your ears, remember that your hearing will be reduced.

Lightweight base layers designed specifically for high-energy sports help transmit sweat away from your body while keeping you warm. A mid-weight long-sleeve, high-neck jersey with a zip neck can permit you to ventilate when you get up to your operating temperature. Depending on the temperature and conditions, you might also want to wear an insulating vest or lightweight long sleeved insulating jacket. Avoid down insulation for riding, because it becomes ineffective as it’s soaked by evaporating sweat. I like a lightweight snug-fitting fleece vest or jacket when the temperature drops—warm even if wet.

 

 
A weatherproof shell completes the upper body cycling wardrobe. Choose this carefully, because a good jacket can make the difference between being comfortable and being miserable. It should be snug enough that it doesn’t flap wildly in the wind, but loose enough to accommodate all the clothes you’re wearing underneath. In previous winters, I’ve used my Performance Transformer vest-jacket and still like it for cool rides in the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn. Because it’s made of polyester, the Transformer sheds light- to moderate rain quite well. It’s versatile and very lightweight, but its zippers require care and are difficult to manipulate when my fingers are cold (my review gives more detail about them). When the temperatures get down below the 50-degree Fahrenheit mark, I switch to my Canari Barrier Commuter jacket, which has long pit zips that make temperature regulation a snap.

Late last year Farwell bought a Rainshield O2 Cycling Rain Jacket from Bike Nashbar.
The O2 sells for about USD35, and it IS waterproof (not just water resistant). Though it seems fragile in the same way Tyvek does, the jacket appears capable of resisting snags and tears. It’s very lightweight, and though Farwell hasn’t had a chance to wear it very often on the bike during wet days yet, it’s survived long hikes in a steady, soaking rain, where he remained dry and comfortable. When cycling, he takes it along in his rack trunk, and combines it with a polyester Nashbar Essential wind vest which, in combination with the O2, makes for a package weighing about 12 ounces. Combined and compressed, the pair takes up about as much space as a one-quart thermos. Unfortunately, the Nashbar vest is no longer sold in polyester, but is available in nylon, which isn’t as water resistant. Farwell cautions that the O2 appears to run a bit small, and while it fits his trunk well, the pits are snug except when in the riding position.

 
In addition to maintaining core body temperature and keeping dry, it’s important to…

Keep Warm Down Below As the seasons shift from sultry to cool and finally to frigid, I swap my wardrobe from lycra shorts alone to lycra shorts and knee warmers, then to lycra knickers, and finally to lycra bike shorts under stretch tights. When temperatures are in the region of 40 degrees Fahrenheit, I wear lightweight tights, and when they dip below freezing I switch over to polar tights. The polar tights are fleeced inside and sleek outside, and the slick material allows me to slide on the saddle—I like to adjust my position frequently. In very cold temps, I wear lycra knickers, high wool socks, and the polar tights. Wind pants with zips at the ankles fit over my lower body if the weather is very sloppy or if I need to stop en route—the zips let me pull the pants on and off without pulling off my shoes. To complete the outfit, I wear either neoprene toe-warmers or fleece-lined booties from Performance, depending on the temperature and whether or not the roads are wet.

 
Of course, what works for me might not work for you, because…

Cyclists Differ in Their Cold Tolerance Some can cope with colder temperatures better than I. I can go without a skull cap under my helmet when others are shivering, but I need to keep my hands covered when other cyclists are wearing short-fingered gloves. The lesson to take from this is that you’ll have to figure out for yourself what works best. With a wardrobe which includes base layers, basic summer-weight cycling clothes, insulating outer layers, and wind shells, you will be able to mix-and-match to suit conditions. Experiment to find what works best for you.

 

 
It’s better to carry more than you need to keep warm than to not have enough. That’s what handlebar bags, panniers, and rack trunks are for. Particularly in frigid weather, it’s wise to haul warmies in case you’re delayed by a flat tire or a mechanical problem. Mount a small pannier on your bike rack to carry the extra clothes. Someday you’ll be glad you did. Frostbite and hypothermia are nothing to sneeze at.

 

 
Send a Comment